Favorite Paris restaurants

…aka Where I Feed Myself and Sometimes my Dog

Paris has more restaurants than existential crises—and ten times that in reviews. So why me? Well, for one, I go to a lot of restaurants, especially at lunch. Sometimes solo. Frequently with my dog. Usually with a solid appetite, and always with vibe-monitoring radar.

To spare you from doom-scrolling every “Top 25 Paris Eats” list, I’ve sorted my favorites into categories. Because – surprise - not every bistro in Paris is good (plastic-coated menus, I’m looking at you as a dead give-away). And sometimes, you just want someone you know’s word for it and, voila, you’ve fallen in love with that neghborhood gem no-one you know back home has heard of yet.

Here are the six categories I’ll be segmenting restaurants into:

1. Modern French

You’ll find mostly French folks lingering from noon till the bitter, somewhat-boozy end of the ‘lunch hour’, usually around 2:30 or 3:00pm. Sure, dinner probably has turns but lunch is its own eco-system. Stay long enough and you might be adopted by a neighboring table.

2. Classic French Bistros

Here you’re guaranteed to see the staples on the menu; for example, onion soup (please do not ever order ‘French onion soup’ when in France - they’re perfectly aware it’s their style of onion soup; if you want to be extra fancy you can order ‘soupe à l’oignon’ - if you’re not fluent check Google Translate for the proper pronunciation. Your waiter may even nod in approval and, God forbid, a smile on his or her face; they really do appreciate it when you try to speak French. Anyway, think handwritten chalkboards, mirrored walls, a zinc bar and a man named Gérard who’s been coming for 40 years. You’re in the right place.

3. Global

If London is arguably the world capital of Indian haute cuisine then Paris has got a chance to claim that for Lebanese. It’s good to know that Paris is such a draw that immigrants from countries near and far bring their native recipes to the big-kids table of Parisien haute cuisine. In some of these restaurants you momentarily forget you're in France—until the waiter brings out wine that pairs suspiciously well with sambousek. One of my favorites? Kubri, an intimate Lebanese restaurant in the 11th is incredible - each dish has incredibly powerful flavors - some competing with others but with a smooth synergy (know that I go there occasionally and some of the waitstaff knows me so they only speak to me in French despite speaking to many others in English - I like it and it tests my French).

4. Tourist Stars

Your first clue? A rogue ketchup bottle lurking near a baguette basket—dead giveaway that you’re not the only one here consulting TripAdvisor. Yes, someone at the next table is composing a cheese-board photo shoot. But don’t let that deter you. These spots are popular for a reason: the food delivers on the promise of classic French dishes, the service is polished, and the ambiance still whispers Paris even if the table next to you is asking for “ranch on the side.” Bonus: the staff will not only admit to speaking English—they’ll do it with flair (they’re also fully aware that Americans are used to tipping garishly and they absolutely love us for it). It’s Paris with training wheels, and sometimes that’s exactly the right speed.

5. Best Value

Not “cheap,” just a heck of a lot of bang for the buck. These are the spots where you feast like you’ve won the culinary lottery, then check the bill and do a discreet double-take (in a good way).

You walk out full, a little proud of yourself, and maybe even clutching a to-go box—which in Paris is practically taboo. ROI? Try Réduction on Indulgence. These restaurants are the sweet spot where price, pleasure, and portion size finally agree to get along. One example? Atelier

6. Michelin-Star Lunches

Get the star without taking out a second mortgage. One-star lunches are the hack. You’ll experience the chef’s artistry, the service’s hushed reverence, and the satisfaction of checking “Michelin dining” off your bucket list—all before 2 p.m. Two and three stars? That’s between you and your banker (and possibly your therapist).

 

So this post I am share three of my favorite ‘Modern French’ bistros.

Oui Mon Général!
The lunch crowd rolls in between 12:30 and 1:00 and leaves when some random patron starts singing and/or the waitstaff takes off their aprons. Dishes are hearty - especially their fabulous steak that is enough for two, the energy is joyous, and if you're dining solo, expect to leave with two new friends and a solid rosé recommendation. Price per person is between 50 and 70 euros.
📍 14 rue du Général Bertrand, 75005

The leather-bound Wine Book

Le Bon Georges
Less of a bistro, more of a shrine to wine. The tome of a wine list could bench press you (over 2,000 carefully curated gems mostly from France), but the staff are so knowledgeable you’ll feel like a wine snob just for nodding along. Food is plentiful with a fresh twist and beautifully presented. They take pride in the beef rib steak as well as their locally-caught fish. The prices are not for the faint of heart, however. Getting out of there for under 100 euros/pp is only if no wine is served.
📍 45 rue Saint-Georges, 75009

Atelier Roulière
Tiny, elegant, and blessedly unpretentious. You walk in feeling like yourself and leave wondering why you’ve never invested in a cropped leather jacket. The food is simple and excellent, especially the steak, which apparently I now judge all Parisian restaurants by. Price per person is between 60 and 100 euros depending on pairings; they do offer carafes of wine.
📍 24 rue des Canettes, 75006

What about you? Any favorites you’re willing to share? Leave a comment below.

Next week I’ll bite off the next category – Classic French bistros. See you then!

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SPAwhispers: Chapter One